What to know about the Ha Giang Loop

If you're looking into a trip to Vietnam, chances are you've been researching the Ha Giang Loop.

With the recent death of a young woman from the UK, there's been online chatter about whether or not the loop is safe.

While I do believe that many Ha Giang incidents get covered up -- there is only one Reddit post mentioning the woman's death, which I won't be linking due to its graphic nature and disrespectful content -- I find the loop to be relatively safe, as long as you go with a reputable group.

Tour groups I recommend

There are only two groups I recommend: Cheers, which is who I went with, and Ha Giang Motorventures. Why these two? They are not large party tours, and they are known to prioritize safety. There was no pressure to drink, no pressure to party, and nothing wild. Group sizes were kept small, and the accommodations were nice.

Cheers is the more affordable option, while Ha Giang Motorventures is a larger company and a bit pricier. Both tend to attract those in their late twenties to mid-thirties. 

With Cheers, we were given knee and elbow pads, and our drivers prioritized their nightly Duolingo streaks over forcing happy water down our throats. There was one night where we all tried the happy water and enjoyed some karaoke, but as a cautious group of six, the staff understood that we were there for the sightseeing and food -- not the drunken mess.

While out on our tour, I noticed that the Bong and Jasmine groups consisted mostly of teenagers and those in their early twenties, traveling in packs of 20+, weaving in and out with seemingly more emphasis on fun than safety.

At first, I thought our knee pads were overkill. On our second day riding, though, we heard about a girl from one of the party groups who was thrown off her bike that day. Apparently she thought it was funny -- but after hearing about the deadly encounters others have had, it's less so.

We were also there during Typhoon Bualoi, and our guides were updating us by the minute about which roads were closed. They made the call to turn around and got us home safely. People I know on other tours at the time ended up stuck on the mountain for an extra couple of days.

What to pack

Bring as little as possible, as it all needs to fit on the back of your bike! I also recommend a small side bag, as you don't want to be untying your big bag often.

You may see that people buy fake Arc'teryx and such to look trendy and cool on the trip, but any rain gear will suffice. The groups will also give you rain pants, boot covers, and ponchos which do the trick but I'd also suggest a dry bag for the important things.   

• Charger (we had outlets at each stop)
• Wired headphones
• Fanny pack/small bag to keep on you
• Phone lanyard/wristlet 
• Camera 
• Cash 
• Sunblock 
• Mosquito spray
• Dry bag
• Crocs/Flipflops 
• Sneakers 
• Loose shorts or long pants for riding
• Sleepwear
• Two to three shirts (I rewore one of them twice) 
• Extra shorts
• Underwear
• Swimsuit 
• Hoodie
• Tip for your guide! 

My experience

I was told the Ha Giang Loop was a must-do on any trip to Vietnam. Since I was really hoping to try a sleeper bus, it seemed like the perfect opportunity. I did some TikTok research, chose Cheers, and had a wonderful time.

From the get-go, Cheers was great. The guy working at the hostel was lovely -- he told me exactly what to expect and sent me on my way to the bus. Once I got to the station, the driver found me, grabbed my hand, and led me to my bunk. He was incredibly kind and we ended up picking up groceries and a few locals on the way to Ha Giang. I was a bit scared I'd fall asleep and miss my stop, but the driver came to my cabin to make sure I got off. After a quick rest, it was time to meet the rest of my group.

My group consisted of a couple from the UK, a couple from Israel, and a fellow female solo traveler. We were all in our late twenties to mid-thirties and were excited for the food and views.

I'll include photos -- a picture is worth a thousand words -- but overall, it was a great time. We were shocked, however, by how busy the loop was.

If you think it's just a few motorcycle tours out there, you'd be mistaken. The roads are packed with trucks, passenger vehicles, buses, and hundreds of motorbikes. Every stop along the mountain highway was crowded with tourists, including buses of older folk.

While five years ago this may have been a secluded trip, it's now truly just another bar crawl for most.

I was really lucky with my group. We all wanted to learn about the culture and get to know our easy riders. We loved the food and went to bed at a decent hour each night. In the morning, we geared up quickly and were ready to go.

On September 28, Typhoon Bualoi hit Ha Giang. We were midway through our journey when we heard about the landslides. According to Wikipedia, the flood crest on the Lô River at Hà Giang reached 106.47 m (349.3 ft) -- exceeding Alert Level 3 on Vietnam's three-level flood warning system by 3.47 m (11.4 ft). In other words, the rain was BAD.

Our guides originally gave us the option of pressing on, before learning that some of the roads were closed due to landslides. We could either wait it out or head back the way we came. Thanks to our guides and their quick communication with contacts along the route, we were urged to descend as quickly as possible.

On the way down, we came across multiple landslides and even had to cross sections where the water came up to our knees. We knew the flooding was serious when we noticed that even the locals had their cameras out. Several sections of road were wiped out, and police were on hand at majorly flooded sites to make sure we crossed safely.

We were lucky to have had two exceptional days and enjoyed seeing the dramatic difference the rain made to the landscape. When we got back to Ha Giang, though, we learned that people had lost their homes and the flooding was so severe that some couldn't get back to Hanoi. We were the last group to make it back.

Now, don't let this discourage you -- we had an amazing time and never felt unsafe.

That said, the tour group you choose makes all the difference. The girl who passed away was traveling with one of the larger party groups, which have a reputation for excessive drinking between both the guests and easy riders. It's also said that it was a freak accident, although there is some discourse about a hungover driver. Either way, it's NOT the norm.

As well, I'm not discouraging you from trying the happy water, but understand that there's always a risk of poisoning -- you're literally drinking homemade alcohol.

Be safe, do your research, and as always, speak up if you're uncomfortable with how your easy rider is driving.

Would I recommend the loop? 

If you're looking for a touristy experience, I definitely recommend the Ha Giang Loop. If I were to go back in time, however, I'd probably go with the Cao Bang Loop instead!